Museo de las Casas Reales
During my trip to Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic in June 2023, I visited Museo de las Casas Reales [Museum of the Royal Houses] on Calle Las Damas in Ciudad Colonial. Also known as Palacio de los Gobernadores [Palace of the Governors], this 512-year-old building housed artifacts related to European settlement on Hispaniola. The building served its original purpose as a government office from its construction in 1511 to 1821, when then-president of Spanish Haiti, Don José Núñez de Cáceres, declared the island independent from Spain. The Trujillo government modified the building in 1947 to store an armory and weapon collection. The constitutional government restored the building in 1973 and kept the museum open to the public since 1976.
In the entrance of Muso de las Casa Reales, a large mural depicted a conquistador, likely Diego Colón, the son of Cristóbal Colón [Christopher Columbus], standing beside a cacique or leader of the Taíno. At the front desk, visitors picked up audio guides in their chosen languages. The bottom floor was filled with portraits, maps, and other artifacts from Spanish exploration. An oliphant, or carved elephant horn, portrayed Spanish conquistadores fighting on horseback. A model of the Santa Maria, the ship used by Cristobal Colón when exploring the Caribbean on his first voyage, sat inside a plexiglass case. A lifesized portrait showed Arzobispo Alejandro Geraldini, the first archbishop of Santo Domingo who is buried in Catedral Primada de América, sitting in his red robe with an open book, likely a Bible, on his lap. Plaques around the room described the firsts of the Americas that took place in Santo Domingo. The first catechism and the first alphabetization of an American indiginous language took place in the city. Fray Ramón Pané, a Hieronymite friar, recorded the culture and language of the Taíno beginning in 1494. Fray Juan de la Deule and Fray Juan de Tisin, a pair of Franciscan friars, taught catechism to the Taíno beginning the same year. Not to be forgotten was Fray Bartolomé de las Casas, a Dominican friar, who became “Protector of the Indians” in 1544, fifty years after the introduction of Catholicism to Hispaniola.
Colorful, stylized maps depicted multiple aspects of Hispaniolan, American, and transatlantic geography. A three-dimensional, topographic map showed the changes in elevation from the beaches to the mountains of the island. A map titled Principales Productos de Exportacion [Principal Products of Exportation] used colorful triangles and dots to demonstrate the valuable goods of North and South America during early transatlantic trade, including cocoa, cocaine, textiles, shells, sugar, and tobacco. A massive map focused on the Atlantic Ocean denoted the exploration routes between the Iberian Peninsula and the Carribbean. The plaque of “firsts” in this section described the first sugar plantations in the Americas, where enslaved indiginous Americans and enslaved Africans harvested sugarcane and processed the stalks into sugar cones or loafs.
The last section of the ground floor held items of transportation and a replica of a colonial pharmacy. I was surprised to find a familiar black carriage that looked no different than the carriages at many New England museums. A special bonus of this exhibit was a replica of a bright orange and yellow coachman outfit worn by a mannequin. Nearby was a sedan chair, a comfortable traveling booth attached to a pair of poles carried by two strong young men. The replica pharmacy contained long, tall shelves holding ceramic containers of ingredients used to make medicine. A blue design on each container indicated the herb stored inside. The strangest artifact in the room was a taxidermy turtle, as these animals were once used in traditional medicine.
Visitors accessed the upper floor by traversing a relatively undecorated set of well-lit stone stairs. The ceiling on the upper floor was held together by an intricate wooden lattice. The first large room was sparsely decorated relative to the ground floor. Portraits of Spanish nobles hung on the walls, while a glass chandelier hung from the ceiling. This room afforded a beautiful view of the nearby harbor and more modern buildings across the water. A small collection of French clocks sat on marble tables underneath gilt mirrors, providing ideal selfie opportunities. Smaller rooms on this floor were divided by theme, including the office of the governor, paintings and a diorama of early Santo Domingo, and models of military uniforms. Part of the armor and weapon collection once owned by the dictator Rafael Trujillo appeared in a smaller room with signage not updated since the museum’s opening, and I imagined the curatorial staff intended to keep it that way.
The final highlight of the museum was the audience room. The leader of the government sat on a throne between two advisors at the top of a narrow stage to give court verdicts and proclaim laws as the voice of the king of Spain. Behind the throne was a bright red and yellow tapestry embroidered with a coat of arms symbolizing the monarchy of Spain. This variation was specifically for Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile, also called the Catholic Monarchs, who send Cristóbal Colón and subsequent conquistadors to the Caribbean. Round metal plaques depicting the faces of the monarchs hung on either size of the tapestry. This court began operation on October 5, 1511 with Diego Colón acting as governor. A plaque on the back wall commemorated the five hundredth anniversary in 2011.
This museum was among my favorite experiences in Santo Domingo. The design of the building to take advantage of natural airflow, in addition to modern fans, kept the space cool even in the middle of the day. The excellent audio tour script supplimented the signage in the exhibits, allowing me to review history I had learned during other museum tours and to discover more about the Dominican. I found a few unconventional places to sit, including wide windowsills and an unbusy floor, but the space would benefit from additional chairs and benches. Like most historic buildings, the upper floor was accessible only by stairs. However, an excellent virtual tour is available on the official website. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Tickets cost RD$100 (US$1.75) for adults, RD$20 (US$0.35) for children and college students with ID, and RD$10 (US$0.18) for public school students with ID. You will never get this much history at such a price anywhere else. This stop is a must-see for historians visiting the Dominican.
Abby Epplett’s Rating System
Experience: 9/10
Accessibility: 8/10