Catedral Primada de América

During my trip to Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic in June 2023, I visited the oldest cathedral in the western hemisphere, Catedral Primada de América, located next to Parque Colón. Its complete name with all epithets is Basílica Catedral de Santa María la Menor, Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación o Anunciación, Primada de América, de Santo Domingo [Basilica Cathedral of Saint Mary the Younger, Our Lady of the Incarnation or Annunciation, First of America, from Santo Domingo]. As a major factor in the decision for Ciudad Colonial to become a UNESCO world heritage site, the five hundred year old Gothic style cathedral offers audio tours in multiple languages, along with supporting a regular parish. To reach the tourist entrance, visitors enter La Plazoleta de los Curas [Little Plaza of the Priests], so called because this was a place for the clergy to gather.

The early line of leadership in the church was as interesting as it was confusing. In 1511, Pope Julius II ordered the construction of the original cathedral. Unfortunately, the project took some time to get underway. The first overseer of the project was intended to be Obispo Francisco García de Padilla. The house on Calle Las Damas built for the bishop now belongs to Kahkow Experience, a chocolate company. The bishop died at sea before reaching Hispaniola, so he never lived in the house or built the cathedral. The next bishop, Italian expat Obispo Alessandro Geraldini (also spelled Alejandro in Spanish), arrived in Santo Domingo and began the project in 1523, but he died the following year in 1524. Next, Obispo Luis de Figueroa was appointed to the position, only for officials to discover that he had died back in 1523. Obispo Ramírez de Fuenleal temporarily held the office from 1528 to 1531 before transfering to Mexico, where many of the workers also went to look for gold. At last, Obispo Alonso de Fuenmayor served as bishop, and later archbishop, of Santo Domingo from 1538 to 1554, bringing much needed stability to the project. Initial construction of the cathedral finished in 1540, although a series of renovations and restorations continue until the present day.

Strong, decorative iron gates guard the churchyard. One gate displays the initial construction year of 1523 and the renovation year of 1992, along with what appears to be coats of arms representing the diocese. Another gate displays four figures representing the four gospels: an angel for Matheus [Matthew], a winged lion for Marcus [Mark], a bull for Lucas [Luke], and a griffon for Joannes [John]. A neighboring gate depicts Pedro [Peter] with the Keys to the Kingdom, and Pablo [Paul] holding the Sword of the Spirit.

Light, color, and scale overwhelmed visitors as they entered the massive sanctuary. The cathedral was 54.55 meters (179 feet) long and 23 meters (75 feet) wide. It contained seven Capillas Nave Norte [North Chapel Naves] and seven Capillas Nave Sur [South Chapel Naves]. To the right of the visitor entrance was Ave Maria Altar [Hail Mary Altar]. This gilded, Baroque style altar was covered with ornate, oil paintings using a polychrome technique, meaning that the artist attempted to use as much bright color as possible to convey the splendor of God, angels, and the saints. Other altars in the cathedral, including Capilla de San Francisco de Paula o de la Magdalena o de San José [Chapel of Saint Francis of Paola, Mary Magdalene, and Saint Joseph] and Capilla de la Altagracia [Chapel of Grace], were constructed in the same style.

Altars, statuary, and other religious imagery indicated important stories within the Catholic tradition specific to the Dominican Republic. Capilla de Santa Ana o Rodrigo de Bastidas [Chapel of Saint Anna and Rodrigo de Bastidas] held the body of Spanish bishop whose father was a conquistador. A detailed marble sculpture above his crypt depicted his body in eternal rest. Capilla del Bautismo [Baptism Chapel] contained a marble baptismal font and a blue stained glass window. Capilla del Santísimo Sacramento [Chapel of Blessed Sacrament] could not be photographed, as it was designated as a more sacred place within the cathedral. The balcony above the chapel was decorated with the bodies and faces of cherubs. My favorite chapel was Capilla de Nuestra Señora del Sagrado Corazón [Chapel of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart). The gilded, polychrome altar featured the image of Mary wrapped in a Dominican flag. The barrelled ceiling above the altar was constructed of blond brick, and a bright chandelier lit the space.

While each chapel was beautifully decorated, the spaces blended into each other due to their number and similarity of decoration. Fortunately, the statuary or painting on the altar directly correlated to the name of the chapel, such as Capilla de Jesús en la Columna [Chapel of Jesus on the Column], Capilla de Nuestra Señora de la Antigua [Chapel of Our Lady of Antiquity], and Capilla de Nuestra Señora de la Luz [Chapel of Our Lady of the Light]. These chapels dedicated to saints and used for quiet contemplation were broken up by a chapel used as a mausoleum. Capilla de Fernando Arturo de Meriño held the body of an archbishop who also served as President of the Dominican Republic just after General Gregorio Luperón. Capilla de Cristo de la Agonía o Alessandro Geraldini [Chapel of Christ in Agony and Alessandro Geraldini] served the dual purpose of portraying the death of Jesus on the cross and acting as a burial ground for the bishop who started the cathedral, along with an unrelated early 20^th century family. The final chapel before exiting was Capilla de San Miguel o Virgen de los Dolores [Chapel of Saint Michael and the Virgin of Sorrows], the oldest part of the cathedral. From the outside, visitors view the back of a stained glass window depicting the Archangel Michael appearing to a saint.

Catedral Primada de América was spectacular in scale, but its size was also its weakness when keeping the attention of the visitor. Even with the decently lighting, easy walking, wheelchair accessible, plenty of places to sit, and expertly recorded audio tour, the constant stream of icons and names caused sensory overload. Visitors from around the world easily fit in the space and enjoyed the chapels both at their own pace and in their own language. Some of these visitors were older children on class trips who could no longer concentrate once they arrived at the tenth chapel or later. While this priceless historic site is a must-see for anyone traveling to Santo Domingo, along with a pilgrimage for devout Catholics, the experience is not be fun for the average visitor under eighteen. The cathedral is open to visitors from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Tickets with an audio tour cost about RD$60 ($1.20 US). Only a few people at a time can purchase tickets from the inside booth, so one member of the party must go inside while the others wait in the plaza.

Abby Epplett’s Rating System

Experience: 8/10

Accessibility: 8/10