Hospital Point Lighthouse

In September 2024, I visited places and attended programs in Essex National Heritage Area as part of its annual event Trails & Sails. On my second day, I visited Hospital Point Lighthouse in Beverly, MA. Built in 1872, this lighthouse is owned by the United States Coast Guard and acts as a private residence for the First Coast Guard District Commander and his family. The open house during Trails & Sails is one of the few times the general public is permitted on the property, and regular readers know I cannot deny myself a good lighthouse tour.

Informative signage on the white picket fence in front of the lighthouse told visitors the history of the area. The space was first used by European colonists around 1711 when they constructed a watch tower to keep an eye out for incoming ships. In 1775, just before the start of the American Revolutionary War, this area was transformed into a J-shaped earthwork fort, which visitors can still see today. Instead of building fortifications above the ground, soldiers dug into the ground so they could hide in these trenches and shoot at rival troops. For those interested in seeing more of this unique type of architecture, a more extensive earthworks called Conanicut Battery is located in Jamestown, RI.

The area of Hospital Point got its current name in 1801 when a hospital that specialized in treating smallpox patince was constructed. The building served this purpose for only eleven years; by the time of the War of 1812, it was transformed into military barracks, and it burned down by 1849. The site was seemingly not used again until after the American Civil War when this forty-five foot tall lighthouse was built. The light was originally powered by oil and had to be manually maintained by a lighthouse keeper, who lived in the nearby house. In 1947, the light became automated and now runs on electricity. The current fresnel lens, which focuses and magnifies the electrical light, is a “3 1/2 order”, meaning it has a height of 42.9 inches (375 mm) and weighs 1200 pounds (544.3 kg).

Other interesting objects on the grounds included an anchor, a bell, and an oil house. The anchor was among the largest I had seen, rivalling anchors at Salem Maritime National Historic Site in Salem, MA and Spohr Gardens in Falmouth, MA, but it came with no informational signage. The bell was called the Bauman Bell after Rear Admiral Richard A. Bauman, who as Commander of the First Coast Guard District in 1983 had seemingly found the bell headed for scrap and brought it home instead. Further research revealed that Bauman was from Fitchburg, MA and is buried at Arlington National Cemetery beside his wife Dorothy; no word on what she thought of the new lawn ornament. The bell itself dated from 1882 and was cast in the workshop of William Blake, not the English poet but an apprentice of Paul Revere. Even more further research revealed that the original William Blake had died in 1871, so this casting was led by his son, William Sullivan Blake. Also, the family made more than bells, as they cast artillery for the Union Army during the American Civil War.

Finally, the cute little oil house was used for storing a variety of oils. According to the excellent signage outside the building, lighthouses originally ran off whale oil. By the time Hospital Point Lighthouse was built, whales had been slaughtered to near extinction. The United States Lighthouse Board decided to test out other oil options like kerosene (mineral oil), colza (vegetable oil), and lard (animal oil), while electricity and natural gas were dismissed as too complex and expensive. Lard was the first choice in 1874, but kerosene became the standard in 1877, and electrical conversions began in 1900. The oil house was not built until 1901; this lighthouse operation was apparently a bit behind the times.

I highly recommend this lighthouse tour for anyone able to visit during Trails & Sails. Tours were led by members of the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, a volunteer organization associated with the U.S. Coast Guard that gives tours and trainings, freeing the actual Coast Guard to rescue people doing foolish things in boats. The grounds are fully accessible, although the slanting lawn may be difficult to navigate for some. The lighthouse is accessed via steep and winding stairs plus a ladder. Entering the top platform through a hatch takes serious coordination, which my small party of twenty-somethings enjoyed but might not be as enjoyable for everyone. If you are able to reach the top, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the harbor, while the view from the ground is also lovely.

Abby Epplett’s Rating System

Experience: 9/10

Accessibility: 7/10