Templo y Hospital San Nicolás de Bari

Back in June 2023, I visited Ciudad Colonial, a UNESCO World Heritage area in the center of Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic. I started my visit with a ride on the ChuChu Colonial to get a layout of the city. Next, I revisited several sites featured on the tour. The first of these sites was Templo y Hospital San Nicolás de Bari. The ruins of a 16^th century European style hospital stand on Calle Hospital, a third of a mile (350m) from Parque Colón.

The governor of Hispanola, Nicolás de Ovando, led the construction of the hospital beginning in 1503. He named the hospital for his patron saint, Nicolás de Bari, who is known in English as Saint Nicholas of Myra or Santa Claus. The original building was made of palm wood and could only support six patients. La Cofradía de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción [Brotherhood of Our Lad of the Conception] managed the hospital. They built a first permanent building in 1519, a second building by 1527, and a thrid building between 1533 and 1552.

Architects found inspiration in the Italian Renaissance architecture as interpreted by the Spanish ruling class. These nobles appreciated Gothic designs from German and French buildings, along with Mudéjar design from Iberian Muslim architects, so these elements were also incorporated into the building. The completed hospital was in the shape of a cross. The earlier designs of this hospital inspired the construction of other hospitals, notably Hospital de la Limpia Concepción de Nuestra Señora [Hospital of the Immaculate Conception of Our Lady] founded by conquistador Hernán Cortés in Mexico City, completed by 1524.

Unfortunately, most of these stone and brick structures are now in ruins due to years of war and neglect. English privateer Sir Francis Drake attacked Santo Domingo in 1586, causing damage to the hospital and many other major buildings. During the War of Independence and the Restoration, the condition of the buildings declined even further. The city abandoned the hospital in 1863.

Today, only one section of the building has been reconstructed. Nuestra Señora de Altagracia [Church of Our Lady of Grace] stands on top of the ruins of the original chapel. This church is architecturally significant for two reasons. Constructed in 1922, no other church was built in Ciudad Colonial during the 20^th century. The builders utilized modern technology by using reinfored concrete to construct the barrel vault, a rounded ceiling design first created in ancient Mesopotamia and found in many modern churches. The church holds regular services, although like many Dominican destinations, the times listed online and on signage do not match up.

Templo y Hospital San Nicolás de Bari are free and open to the public on most days. The iron gate in front of the ruins is open from about 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The grounds are at the same level as the sidewalk, but no clear paths run through the property. Because these are unrestored ruins, visitors should expect tripping hazards throughout the area. Besides acting as an internationally important site in the history of architecture and medicine, this place offers a quiet respite from the busyness and noise towards the center of the historic area.

Abby Epplett’s Rating System

Experience: 9/10

Accessibility: 6/10