Fortaleza Ozama

In June 2023, I visited Fortaleza Ozama, a 16^th century Spanish fort located on Calle Las Damas in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. The fort gets its name from Río Ozama, the nearby river whose name comes from a Caribbean language, Taíno, and means watery highway. Initially built between 1502 and 1508, once the Spanish had thoroughly investigated the island, the fort is the oldest European style fort in the Americas and is part of Ciudad Colonial, a UNESCO world heritage site. Governor of Hispaniola, Frey Nicolás de Ovando, commissioned the construction of the fort around the same time as Hospital San Nicolás de Bari. This stop joins other forts that I viewed during the trip included nearby Fuertes Invencible y San Diego, along with Fortaleza de San Felipe in Puerto Plata and Fortaleza San Luis in Santiago de los Caballeros.

The fort was built of unique construction materials. The walls were not made with rocks but with coral from the Caribbean Sea. The cement binding together the coral blocks came from commonly regarded construction like lime and clay along with animal blood. This additive has been incorporated into cement since the time of Ancient Rome to allow the cement to set underwater. The main attraction at the fort is Torre del Homenaje [Homage Tower]. At 18 meters (59 feet) high, the lookout was the tallest European style building in the Americas through the 1700s. The construction of the fort likewise has a sombering history, as enslaved indigenous and African people constructed the massive building. Modern visitors can climb to the top of the tower, although in-progress restoration supplies are kept at the top. The tower affords a wide view of the water, which allowed Spanish colonists to defend Hispaniola from French, Dutch, and English privateers. Among the most infamous was Sir Francis Drake, who captured the fort in 1568.

The fort received additional features over time. The gate to Calle Las Damas did not come until 1608. The ebony doors hanging in the gate, named for Carlos III, came in 1787, the same year as Armería Polvorín de Santa Bárbara [Gunpowder Armory of Saint Barbara]. The weapon storage area was named for Saint Barbara, the patron saint of explosions, given this title after her evil father was struck by lightning while beheading her. The armory was cleverly built to look like a church to ward off privateers. In 1938, during the Trujillo Era, the government renamed the fort to Fortaleza Trujillo and constructed Murella de Felix Benito, a modern wall. They also constructed the nearby Malecón, a path along the river, while deepening Puerto Santo Domingo. The roadway and walking path were built on soil that was once underneath the water.

Besides its status as a lookout and line of defense, the fort served as a prison for politicians and privateers. Cristobal Colón was imprisoned here for his heinous behavior, while Juan Pablo Duarte was held prisoner in 1836 during the Haitian Military Occupation of Santo Domingo. This usaged lasted until the Dominican Civil War in 1965, when the fort became a public place. An avant-garde statue of Gonzalo Fernández de Oviedo y Valdés, a governor of Hispaniola in the mid-16^th century and the first historian of Spanish colonies in the Americas, stands in the middle of the courtyard. Spanish artist Joaquín Vaquero Turcios created the piece in 1977. The foreboding sculpture appears inspired by Darth Vader, as the first Star Wars movie had been released earlier that year.

While its open hours appear irregular, Fortaleza Ozama is worth the visit if you are already on Calle Las Damas. Guides at the entrance offer a complimentary introduction to the fort in English or Spanish. Ample signage around the courtyard and inside the fort is also in English and Spanish. The grounds are accessible for wheelchair users and those with limited mobility, but the steps of the tower are steep and crumbly in places. The bathrooms were out of order during my visit. The road was being reconstructed, so vehicles could not navigate the area, although pedestrians could still get through. Tickets were 70 pesos (US$1.40) for adults, a bargain for such an important piece of global history.

Abby Epplett’s Rating System

Experience: 7/10

Accessibility: 4/10