Fortaleza de San Felipe
In June 2023, I visited Fortaleza de San Felipe (Saint Philip Fort), a restored 16th century fort in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic named in honor of Philip the Apostle. Earlier that day, I had visited the Dominican Amber Museum Experience and Casa Museo General Gregorio Luperón, just over 900 m (0.5 miles) away. Provided with an English-language audio guide, I learned the full history of the fort and surrounding area.
Before entering the fort, I stopped to see the pair of statues honoring two important men in the history of the Caribbean. Atop a pedestal, General Gregorio Luperón sat astride his rearing war horse and wore his signature hat. Nearby was a green, copper bust of Antonio Maceo y Grajales with a voluminous mustache. He lived from 1845 to 1896 and served as a military leader during the Ten Years War in Cuba and War of Independence in Cuba.
Once inside the fort, visitors freely roamed the pathways marked by guardrails. The baritone voice of the audio tour described the early years of the fort. King Felipe II of Spain commissioned its construction in 1564. Don Rengifo de Angulo, the local mayor, oversaw the completion of the project by 1577. This fort protected the Spanish harbor from its European enemies, especially Sir Francis Drake and the British Navy, the French Navy, and the Dutch West India Company (WIC). I was entertained by the enthusiastically biased account of how these fleets attacked the shores of Hispaniola.
Later, the fort was part of the Battle of Puerto Plata Harbor in 1800. By that time, France and Spain allied against the young United States during the Quasi-War. The USS Sally attacked a French ship and later the fort. This action was not approved by the United States government, and the country apologized. While the fort sustained some damage during this minor battle, much of the building was destroyed during the Restoration from 1863 to 1865. The government had added additions to the fort to modernize the structure, but only the original section remained once the war was over.
The fort became prison several times throughout its history. Here in 1844, at the end of the War of Independence, General Pedro Santana jailed the Dominican Republic’s favorite founding father, Juan Pablo Duarte. The room where Duarte was imprisoned now has his portrait and a Dominican flag in his honor. Many years later, in 1960, Trujillo imprisoned the husbands of the Mirabal sisters and Puerto Plata. The dictator correctly guessed that the sisters would travel to meet their husbands and had them murdered along the route.
By the time of the Trujillo Era, the fort had fallen into decay. The fort turned into a museum in 1965 but was not officially open to the public, as it needed a major facelift. The building received major renovations until 1972 and was dedicated as a cultural landmark by Secretaría de Estado de Cultura (State Secretariat for Culture) in 1974, but opening still stalled. Finally, in 1983, the fort let in its first visitors.
Today, part of the fort is an open air gallery featuring the photography of local artists who won the contest POP Me Hace Sonreir (Makes Me Smile) hosted by Puerto Plata Ashonorte, the tourism council of the area. Another incredible exhibit inside the fort are the Primicias de América en República Dominicana (American Firsts in the Dominican Republic). This fun national project documents early settlements, buildings, places of worship, and events that took place during Spanish colonization of Hispaniola.
Unfortunately, not all visitors can access these exhibits. Like many old forts, this building is only accessible by stairs, and no ramps are available. Audio tours come in Spanish, English, Portuguese, French, and many other languages, but no written equivalent is available. The inside spaces of the fort are dark and cramped. Frequent pictogram signage reminds visitors to mind their heads. All written signage was in Spanish and used plain language. The restrooms were super clean and monitored, a surprise bonus. Tickets were $400RD (about $2US) and include the audio headset. This is another not-to-be-missed spot for history lovers visiting Puerto Plata.
Abby Epplett’s Rating System
Experience: 9/10
Accessibility: 5/10