Historic New England: Codman Estate

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Striped header image reading, Historic New England Codman Estate "The Grange"

A few weeks ago, I visited Codman Estate, called “The Grange” by former owners, which is located in Lincoln, Massachusetts and operated by Historic New England. Built as a plantation house and later serving as a summer estate, five generations of the Codman family lived in the house and filled it with their extensive collections. Because the house was gifted to HNE by the family in 1968, all materials in the house are original and belonged to the Codmans and their relatives. The house currently hosts two regular tours, the Servants Tour and the House Tour, which take place on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month.

A three-story, blue, Federalist style house with black-shuttered windows stands across an expansive lawn at the end of a long path interspersed with stone steps. A three-quarters view of a blue, Federalist style house with black-shuttered windows and a white porch with wooden Ionic columns. A three-quarters view of a blue, Federalist style house with black-shuttered windows and a first floor bump-out with large windows. An intricate metal chair casting a shadow on the ground. A pair of benches decorated with metal swans sit below a pair of black shuttered windows on a porch overlooking an expansive lawn. A black and blue sign reading "Codman Estate "The Grange" c. 1740" in the black section and the Historic New England logo in the lower right of the blue section.

Servants Tour

Debuting this year, the servants tour gives visitors the opportunity to go “behind the scenes” of the Codman estate, seeing the kitchen, pantry, cellar, servants’ bedrooms, main bedroom, and upstairs hall. This tour is held once a day at 10:00 a.m. and lasts just under the hour. On that day, because of the perfect weather, visitors met the guide outside the house in the shade of a large tree. Similar to Servant Life Tour at The Elms in Newport, RI, a tour guide leads a group of up to ten people through rooms of the house used by the staff.

Laundry Room

The first indoor stop is the laundry room. Visitors can view laminated copies of “help wanted” ads from 19th century newspapers, along with photographs of servants at the Codman Estate. A unique object is the iron warming stove in the walk-in closet off the main laundry room, where sheets are hung up to dry.

A long, metal sink about waist height with three sections and six spigots. 
A bedsheet hangs on the left over a wicker basket. A small stove for warming irons sits on the red brick floor. 

Kitchen, Pantry, & Servants' Dining Room

The second stop on the servants tour were the kitchen, pantry, and servants’ dining room. In the kitchen, the guide described difficulties faced by Mrs. Sarah “Sally” Fletcher Bradlee Codman in hiring and keeping a good cook. In one year, the family might hire and lose seven or eight cooks, who quit due to the amount of work to feed a large household. After several letters from her son urging her to hire an assistant to the cook, Mrs. Codman relented and experienced less turnover in the years that she paid both cook and assistant.

A feature familiar to old house enthusiasts is the call box. The house is equipped with early telephones, allowing family members to call down to the servants’ quarters with requests. The ornately decorated metal stop is an inverse of modern appliances, with the stovetop on the bottom and several ovens on top. The pantry and counter spaces are filled with delft ceramics and china belonging to the Codman family and their relatives. HNE historians suspect that relatives who wanted their sets preserved would send the dishes along to the Codman house, as they knew it would one day become a museum. My favorite pieces were a teapot with a windmill and a full set of peacock dishes. The banjo style clock on the wall beside the door was no longer operational.

Three-quarters view of a mid- to late-19th century black metal kitchen stove set into a painted black brick fireplace. Front view of a mid- to late-19th century black metal kitchen stove set into a painted black brick fireplace. 
A padded wicker box containing a porcelain tea set on a counter beneath off-white cabinets A white and blue delft tea set sits on a counter beneath off-white cabinets. A six foot wide fireplace supplied with two large logs. A black, wooden chair sits to the left of the fireplace. A blue and white delft teapot featuring a Dutch-style windmill
Black and white porcelain tea set featuring peacocks in a landscape A full view of the Codman Estate Servants' Dining Room, including the kitchen table in the center, cabinets to the left, and fireplace to the right
A long, brown, wooden clock on a white wall A black box surrounded by a cream colored wood frame 
An antique black telephone attached to a whitewashed wall

Cellar

A quick walk down to the cellar revealed the last coal delivered to the house. Beside the door to the coal room is an advertisement for the United States Fuel Administration. The blue ink image a pair of draft horses pulling a cart while a man shovels coal out the back was designed by American artist J. C. Leyendecker during World War I, around 1914 to 1918.

A large pile of coal in a stone and brick cellar A small print of blue ink on white paper. The image portrays a pair of draft horses pulling a cart while a man shovels coal out the back. The test reads, "Order Coal Now United States Fuel Administration"

Main Bedroom

The main bedroom belonged to Mrs. Codman. Her book recording servants’ wages remained on her wooden desk. Even with the paintings hung on the walls and an ornate crystal candleholder set on the bureau, the space was not as heavily decorated as the public areas of the house. A view from Mrs. Codman’s bedroom window afforded a view of the servants’ wing of the house, perhaps so Mrs. Codman could keep an eye on them and possibly contribute to the high turnover.

A three inch long, two inch wide black-bound book labeled "Servants Wages" 
A window framed by curtains overlooking a wing of the house A light over a framed architectural painting
A late 19th century brown wooden desk and chair set underneath a woman's portrait A rounded mirror connected to a bureau. A pair of ornate crystal candleholders sit atop the bureau.
A large bedroom with a bed, bench, wardrobe, and fireplace.

Nurse’s Bedroom

This bedroom belonged to Marie Reine Lucas, who worked as the French nanny of Dorothy Codman, youngest child from the final generation of Codmans to live in the house. Called Reine throughout the tour, she was regarded as one of the most loyal servants in the Codman household, remaining with them as the family moved between their houses and went abroad. My favorite item in this room was the colorful Jules Verne book.

A wooden chair with floral cushions Three books on a wooden bureau
A bedroom containing a medal framed bed and a floral daybed

Second-Story Hall

The second-story hall connected sections of the house with a complicated staircase. Like many older homes, the house was expanded from a large family home to a mansion over many years and renovations. Decorated with the family’s art and an intricate red rug, the hall hosts one of my favorite features of the house, a late 18th or early 19th century clock from the Aaron Willard clock workshop in Roxbury, MA. His birthplace in Grafton, MA is now the Willard House & Clock Museum.

A rustic, Greek shepherd statue in front of a landscape oil painting framed with an ornate golden frame A pair of stairs connecting on a small platform  Red carpeted stairs with ornate wooden balusters 
A close-up of the face of a Willard grandfather clock A wooden grandfather clock

Front Parlor

The servants tour ends where the main tour begins, at the front parlor of the house. This room was decorated by the oldest son of the last generation of Codmans, famed American architect and interior designer Ogden Codman, Jr. He decorated in the Beau-Arts style, teaching wealthy “New Money” clients to incorporate “Old Money” art and neoclassical design with the technology of the modern world to create a visually exciting but physically relaxing environment. In the parlor, the fabric of the furniture matched the curtains and the bases of the lamps even as these designed clashed with the carpets and lampshades.

A white neoclassical door flanked by carved ionic columns A white and blue floral base with a cream lampshade  An easy chair covered in floral fabric in white and blue A white and blue floral base with a floral lampshade  A wooden writing desk with gold inlay and clawfoot legs. A wooden chair with white and blue floral fabrics and matching curtains A view of a parlor, including an upholstered chair, lamp on a side table, and multiple paintings on the wall. Antique wooden drawers topped by a white and blue decorative vase.A settee with blue and white cushions flanked on either side by a side table topped by decorative lamps. Behind the settee is a window with curtains matching the pattern of the cushions.

House Tour

The main tour meets on the front steps of the house and lasts for just under an hour. I took the 11:00 a.m. tour, but other tours are available on the hour at 12:00 noon, 1:00 p.m., and 2:00 p.m. The 11:00 a.m. tour included all of the visitors who took the servants tour plus an additional couple and ended up a bit crowded. If you plan to take just the house tour, I advise you to choose another time.

Drawing Room

Like the parlor, the drawing room was decorated by Ogden Codman, Jr. in the Beau-Arts style. The room is overstuffed with furniture, lamps, decorations, and books. The guide believes the room suffers a similar dilemma as the pantry, where Codman relatives generously donated their antiques to the house with the knowledge that it would become a museum. Unfortunately, this makes impossible the separation of pieces owned by the resident Codmans from their well-meaning family members.

One known original feature in the drawing room is the portrait of Richard Codman, the first Codman to begin collecting art. In 1793, renown artist John Singleton Copley painted the portrait as a copy of another portrait that he had previously painted.

A crowded drawing room with floral patterned couch and chair, Dutch inlay cabinet, many side tables holding lamps or decorations, and more!  A stuffed parlor with bright green painted walls. Contents include ornate chairs, two busts, books upon books, and large picture windows.  A green and gold book cover portraying a garden. The title at the top reads "American Gardens" while the bottom reads "Edited by Guy Lowell" A Dutch wooden wardrobe with a decorative inlay pattern. Three vases set on top.  The portrait of a man hung on a bright green wall between two other paintings and above a wood cabinet holding a pair of pink candle holders and matching lamp, along with a vase. Oil Painting of the Colosseum  Another View of the Drawing Room, including a floral couch and chair set, more books, more chairs, more side tables, more lamps, more vases, and the corner of the fireplace.  A decorative fireplace screen depicting a framed portrait of a shepherd with her sheep, with the portrait surrounded by a floral garland

Library

Formerly the billiards room, the library houses more art, furniture, and books, including The Decoration of Houses written by Ogden Codman, Jr. and Edith Warton. Ogden, Jr. helped to design the interior Warton’s house, The Mount, in Lenox, MA. A few of his other famous interiors include the second and third floor of The Breakers in Newport, RI; Kykuit in Sleepy Hollow, NY; and Hampshire House in Boston, MA. The portrait of the man holding the violin is Ogden, Jr.'s younger brother Hugh, who was a professional musician.

A fireplace surrounded by tiles depicting a red, donut shaped design. 
A stuffed library containing two portraits on the walls, a set of drawers topped with vases and a small statue, a table covered with books, and a desk  A gilt Rococo clock with a black lion on either side of the clock face, a lion on top of the clock face, and a sun beneath the clock face.  A lamp with a decorative base and a floral lampshade. 
A lamp base depicting flowers and birds on a bright orange background. A portrait of a man holding a violin hung on the wall above a stuffed bookshelf, which also holds a Rococo clock and a pair of vases. 

First-Story Hall

The first-story hall features the original yellow-and-white floral wallpaper, a decorative tile floor, and a pair of three-feet-tall Qing Dynasty vases. The staircase features three designs of balusters or stair spindles, emphasizing the wealth of the family. The curlicue designs on the side of the staircase reminded me of the HNE logo.

Also in the first-story hall are three small, white models of the Codman Estate displaying the renovations and changing name of the property. From left to right, the first model displays its initial construction as the Russell House in 1741, the second displays the Codman House from 1799, and the third displays “The Grange” from 1866.

A decorative Chinese vase, about three feet tall. Late 18th century oil portrait of a man in a gilt frame 
Early 20th century yellow and white floral wallpaper
A decorative red, yellow, and blue tile floor 
Three small, white models of the Codman Estate displaying the renovations and changing name of the property. From left to right, the first model displays its initial construction as the Russell House in 1741, the second displays the Codman House from 1799, and the third displays "The Grange" from 1866. 
A curly detail on the whitewashed wooden stairs reminiscent of the swirl in the Historic New England logo

Dining Room

The dining room was among the few rooms in the house not touched by Ogden, Jr., because his mother forbade his decorating in the space. Mrs. Codman and her husband, Ogden Codman, Sr., had personally designed the dining room after their wedding. The room has a large mirror to make the space appear larger, along with displaying the decorative wooden lattice on the ceiling. A 17th century Dutch masters painting hangs opposite the mirror, among the most prized artworks in the HNE collection. Other fun decorations in the room are the wooden lion heads on the mantle, a grandfather clock, and a samurai shield repurposed into a chandelier.

A wide, wood framed mirror reflecting the wooden lattice ceiling 
Wooden head of a lion on the fireplace 17th century Dutch Still-life Painting in a gilt frame Grandfather Clock with a gilt face surrounded by white and blue delft plates 
Lattice Ceilings and Samurai Shield Chandelier

Second-Story Bedrooms

In the final generation of the Codman family, two daughters occupied the second-story bedrooms. They and their mother were accomplished painters, and their watercolor landscapes and still life paintings decorate the walls. Highlights for me were a watercolor of a traditional windmill, a Connecticut River Valley style clock, and a sign explaining the history of the en suite bathroom.

A bedroom containing a wooden framed bed, fireplace, and framed watercolor paintings 
Sign describing history of the bathroom Watercolor Painting of a Windmill 
A small bathroom with a clawfoot tub, sink, side table, and paintings hung on the wall. A makeup table with a round mirror beside a wooden chair. A pink bed beside a fireplace decorated with delft tile A makeup table with a rectangular mirror and a pair of candles
A mid- to late-19th century Connecticut Valley style clock, with a small, black, wooden case and a round clock face. 

Gardens

Even if you do not pay for a tour, you can peruse the expansive lawn, gardens, and outbuildings. Plenty of shade trees line the lawn, allowing visitors to have a summer picnic in the shade.

Italian Garden

Flowers and neoclassical art fill the Italian garden. A white statue of a woman overlooks a reflecting pool with water lilies. A rose arbor with concrete Doric columns stands at one end of the garden, while a wooden pergola shades the other end. Terracotta planters decorated with lion heads, which match the lions found on the dining room fireplace, hold additional flowers. The creepiest feature of the garden is the head of Pan underneath the pergola.

A pink water lily among green lily pads A cluster of pink roses Terra cotta lion head on a pot Terra cotta head of Pan, with an open mouth for a fountain  A vibrant green Italian garden with a lily pool A pink rose A white, faux marble neoclassical statue of a woman A second view of the Italian garden from the same angle as previously described A third image of the Italian garden previously described A neoclassical rose arbor made of concrete Doric columns
The Italian garden from a third angle, including a view of the lily pool, statue, and a wooden pergola

Outbuildings

The three outbuildings are the carriage house, stables, and ice house. These buildings are off-limits to the public and not shown during the tour. The carriage house can be rented for events. In fact, an event was in progress at the end of the day.

A gray, wooden building with a stone foundation A gray wooden building with multiple barn doors A small gray wooden building with a red brick foundation The carriage house and stables as previously described

Conclusion

Codman Estate is a fun house tour filled with historical and decorative details. Taking both the Servants Tour and House Tour is the best way to see most of the complex. However, if you are short on time or attention, the House Tour shows plenty of the space. Expect the other members of the tour to be experts in a field pertaining to the house, such as 19th century history, European art, or Beau-Arts décor. This is not a good house tour for families with young children, as the rooms are stuffed with breakable antiques. Additionally, the many stairs on the tour make it inaccessible to any with mobility issues or in a wheelchair.

Tours are held on the hour and last about 45 minutes. As previously mentioned, the Servant Tour is at 10:00 a.m., while House Tours are at 11:00 a.m., 12:00 noon, 1:00 p.m., and 2:00 p.m. Servants Tours cost $25 for adults, $23 for seniors, and $15 for students. House Tours cost $15 for adults, $13 for seniors, and $10 for students. Grounds are open from dawn to dusk and are free to the public.

Despite the proximity to Gropius House and the trails marked on the map, the path system between the houses are an uneven and unmarked mountain bike style trails. Do not use this pathway to travel between the two houses.

A shaded dirt path leading to a simple bridge

Abby Epplett’s Rating System:

Experience: 9/10

Accessibility: 3/10

Location: 34 Codman Rd, Lincoln, MA 01773, USA