Fortaleza San Luis

Back in June 2023, I visited Fortaleza San Luis in Santiago de los Caballeros, Dominican Republic. The site of the fort was founded in 1674, when Ignacio Zayas Bazán was governor of the island, and Andrés Núñez de la Torra was mayor of the city. The current version of the fort may have been built in the early 19^th century, around 1804-5, during Era de Francia [French Era] when Haiti and the Dominican were ruled by France. At that time, Jean-Louis Ferrand was governor of the island, and Agustín Franco de Medina was mayor of the city. The men were friends and chose to name the fort after Louis IX, an early 13^th century king of France and a saint in the Catholic church whose feast day was last Friday, August 25. At the end of Independence, around 1848, President Pedro Santana ordered the building of barracks and jails in the space. Later, during the Restoration in 1863, the fort served as a training ground for troops, but the hastily constructed wood structures burned down in a fire.

In the late 19^th century, additions to the site included a military officer school, bigger barracks, a military hospital, a clock tower, an iron gate, and a wall. Modifications on the fort continued during U.S. Occupation period during World War I from 1916 to 1924 and the Trujillo Era from the 1930s through the 1960s. The fort was declared a historical site in 2005. Today, the fort is managed by Ministerio de Defensa Comando Conjunto Norte Fuerzas Armadas [Ministry of Defense through the Northern Joint Command Armed Forces], Policía Nacional Dirección General de Seguridad de Tránsito Y Transporte Terrestre (DIGESETT) [National Police General Directorate of Traffic Safety and Land Transport], and Dirección Nacional de Control de Drogas (DNCD) [National Directorate for Drug Control]. Visitors can view shields from each of the thirty-one provinces and an additional three shields for the capital at the entrance to the fort.

Boulevard a los Próceres

The Boulevard of the Heroes is a collection of busts representing the Founding Fathers, Independentists, and Restorationists of the Dominican Republic, especially those from the Cibao Valley. This display is similar to the museum and the steps at Monumento a los Héroes de la Restauración in the center of the city and Panteón de la Patria [Pantheon of the Fatherland] in the capital, Santo Domingo. At the front of the Boulevard are the busts of the three founders: Francisco del Rosario Sánchez, Juan Pablo Duarte, and Matías Ramón Mella.

Another bust portrayed General Gregorio Luperón wearing his usual hat. A new face for me was Juana Saltitopa, also called Juana Trinidad, who was called “La Coronela” or Lady Colonel for her role during the time of Independence. Not much is known about her life, but her story is taught in Dominican schools. She began her career as part of the medical staff and water delivery service during the 1844 battle in Santiago. By 1852, she was promoted to military colonel but later fired by the corrupt President Santana, who also has a bust on the boulevard. She was assassinated in 1860 while in the Santiago area.

Museo Militar

On a stretch of lawn near the edge of the fort is a collection of military vehicles, cannons, and other outdoor objects related to more recent Dominican battles. Visitors apparently can climb on these objects for a picture, as there is no signage or personnel saying otherwise, but would do so at their own risk. Coincidently, this area also has beautiful flowering bushes similar to the native plants seen at Jardín Botánico de Santiago, and those uninterested in tanks might instead get pictures of the blossoms.

Esculturas Exteriores

Similar to the outdoor metal sculptures in the plazas surrounding Monumento a los Héroes de la Restauración, sculptures at the fort portray Dominican characters like metal warriors, a leaping wire horse, and a pair of battling lechones [piglet mascots]. These sculptures were made by local artist Dionisio Peralta using scrap donated by Cementos Cibao. The lechones represent the districts of joyero y pepinero [jewelry and cucumbers]. Peralta’s other works include a sculpture of Dominican accordion player Fefita La Grande; metal replicas of la Niña, la Pinta y la Santa María; and several sculptures at the plaza of Fortaleza Ozama in Santo Domingo.

Murales

The sides of many buildings in the fort feature historical scenes and abstract depictions of Dominican life. One mural shows “la batalla del 30 de marzo 1844” [Battle of March 30, 1844], the same battle where Juana Saltitopa began her career. The bright colors and shapes reminded me of the artwork I saw earlier that day at Centro León.

Cárceles, Esplanada, Salones y Áreas para Actividades

Remarkably, the area is still used as a fort, and its employees protect the city. Reserva de las Fuerzas Armadas [Army Reserves] uses one building to house a retirement board and pension fund coordinator. Another building is kept as a state police station. Also in the complex is Departamento Falsificaciones y Delitos Monetarios [Department for Counterfeiting and Monetary Crimes], where detectives work to keep fake currency out of circulation. Cárcel Pública [Public Jail] appears to no longer hold prisoners. The esplanade or parking lot is used not only for impounding cars but also to hold events like concerts, live talks, and even basketball games. I love seeing a historic structure getting a new life in its community.

Conclusion

The fort is open Monday through Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. with free admission. The indoor museum has no regular open time and was closed when I visited. The fort is about a kilometer west of the monument, and the city is fairly walkable. No parking is available at the fort. The entrance and interior of the fort is wheelchair accessible, although the ramp is steep. Little signage is available except for the plaques on the statues. The entrance of the fort is guarded by soldiers and police in uniform. While the fort does not have the same glamor as some other Santiago attractions, this is a decent stop for military history enthusiasts.

Abby Epplett’s Rating System

Experience: 7/10

Accessibility: 7/10