Centro León
A gorgeous museum deserving of international acclaim, Centro León provides the residents of Santiago and Valle del Cibao the opportunity to experience Dominican history, art, culture, and industry on a modern and at times unconventional campus. Official called Centro Cultural Eduardo León Jimenes, the museum began as an art contest run through La Fundación Eduardo León Jimenes by the descendents of the man for whom these institutions are named. The three-part complex contains an outdoor area with sculptures and an aviary; a large museum showcasing the art and culture of the Dominican Republic, including pieces that won the content; and a small museum focused on the history and industries of the León family, specifically beer and cigars.
On a grassy lawn between the two buildings are outdoor sculptures and an aviary with local waterfowl. One sculpture portrayed a long, skinny man in the style of Alberto Giacometti, while other sculptures were abstract shapes. Plenty of shade allows weary travelers to rest and cool off.
Part of the main building is a modern art museum with paintings, sculpture, and interactive installations. At the time of my visit, an exhibit called “Happy” featuring the work of Jorge Pineda hung on the walls in the spacious rotunda near the indoor garden and the towering escalator. Originally from Barahona on the southwest coast of the Dominican Republic, Pineda spent much of his career in the capital of Santo Domingo. His joyful works of contemporary Caribbean art is inspired by nature, depicting plants from around the world or people turning into trees. Another artistic section of the museum held winners from El Concurso de Arte Eduardo León Jimenes, which began in 1964 and takes place to this day. No photography is allowed in this exhibit to protect the works of local artists.
My favorite parts of the museum were the rooms displaying artifacts from multiple Dominican cultures. The exhibits traced the history of human residence on the island from the earliest indigenous people to colonization and modern life. Cases displayed ancient artifacts rediscovered by Dominican archeologists alongside posters showing how the tools were used. A large exhibit about the arrival of the Spanish in 1492 described mestizaje, the racial and cultural mixing of aboriginal people, Hispanic colonizers, and enslaved Africans. A massive press in the middle of this room reminded visitors of the early industrial tools used in the colonies. Other exhibits in this area were a traditional market that reminded me of a general store in New England; examples of doors and shutters found on colonial era buildings set atop a map displaying the city of Santiago; and a case with gear from the first summitting of Mount Everest completed by Dominican climbers.
The smaller building constructed in a traditional early colonial style holds artifacts from the León family and their businesses. Antonio Gavino León Gonzales and María Natividad Jimenes López, the grandparents of the museum founders, were campesinos who raised nine children and lived in the nearby rural village of Tamboril. The family grew tobacco, and Eduardo León Jimenes started La Aurora cigar company in 1903 when he was eighteen years old. The company made an effort to protect its workers during the Trujillo regime and helped employees create unions to protect their rights. The business is still owned and operated by the family, now in its fifth generation. Inside the building, a running machine demonstrates how cigars are mechanically rolled. The family owned and bottled Presidente brand beer beginning in 1986 and built a collection of beers into Cerveceria Nacional Dominicana. While the family sold the conglomerate in 2012, a moving conveyor belt still demonstrates how glass bottles travel down the line.
With such a wide range of indoor and outdoor activities covering a broad scope of Dominican culture, Centro León is a must-visit for anyone visiting Santiago. The museum, gift shop, cafe, and media library are all open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 a.m. through 7:00 p.m. Tickets cost RD$150 (US$3) for adults, RD$105 (US$2) for seniors, and RD$100 (US$2) for children twelve and under, with discounts for larger groups. The lawns are free every day, while the buildings are free on Tuesdays. You will not find a better price for a comparable experience!
The large building and lawn are fully accessible for wheelchair users and others with mobility impairments. The small building is not accessible. All signage is written in Spanish, and Spanish language audio guides are available in the history section of the large building. The interactive art exhibits are staffed by silent guides who show visitors of all backgrounds how to complete the activities. Additionally, with an advance appointment, groups can hire a Spanish language guide for RD$250 (US$5), or an English or French language guide for RD$300 (US$6). Anyone sensitive to light and sound, especially those predisposed to seizures, should avoid the main entrance to the history and culture section of the large building, as a continuously playing video about Dominican daily life creates rhythmic flashing in time to a soundtrack. Other parts of this exhibit are dimly lit; use your phone flashlight if you have difficulty navigating the space.
Abby Epplett’s Rating System
Experience: 9/10
Accessibility: 8/10