Castle in the Clouds & Brook Walk
During the same trip where I visited Canterbury Shaker Village, I took a trip to Castle in the Clouds (formerly called Lucknow) and the nearby Brook Walk. Located in rural Moultonborough, New Hampshire, the overlooks from this area provide an unmatched view of nearby mountains, lakes, and rivers.
The Carriage House hosts a restaurant, bathrooms, and an exhibit gallery. The restaurant was never open during my visit. The bathroom is a tight squeeze; despite having a wheelchair accessible stall, I doubt a wheelchair could fit past the sinks. I was hoping to see the exhibit “The Shoes that Built the Castle”, a summary of mansion owner Thomas Plant’s manufacturing career, which was listed on the website. Unfortunately, the website was not up-to-date, and this exhibit was replaced by a shallow overview of women in the 20th century.
I had anticipated taking a trolley up the hill to see the mansion, but the trolleys were out of service on the day I visited. Instead, guests rode a cramped school bus up the hill. I chose to take the stairs going down the hill rather than riding the bus again.
The Basement Tour is listed on the website as taking 45 minutes but barely took 30 minutes. A docent guides visitors through a cramped basement space with little signage. A successful tour of this space would take a solid script, strong voice, and group management skills, but the docent on the tour had none of these, instead treating the tour like an ongoing pop quiz. I recommend skipping this tour.
The Castle Tour begins with a brief video shown on a tiny screen. The rest of the tour is self-guided. Docents stand in many rooms, but most work as crowd control rather than guides. QR codes in the corner of signs link to a PDF version of the sign rather than an audio tour or additional information. These signs describe the life of Thomas Plant, his much younger wife Olive Dewey, and their ability to waste Plant’s fortune through a lavish lifestyle, questionable design choices, and bad investments.
The one highlight of the Castle are its beautiful stained glass windows. Plant spared no expense creating this often tasteless behemoth, but the inclusion of delicate flowers and lively animals displayed in the round, colorful windows was an excellent design choice.
The Castle does have a few other unique features. A “hidden room” off the library may have been a hiding spot for Thomas Plant but could also have been used for storing chairs. The Aeolian Player Organ in the main room was created specifically for the structure by the Aeolian Company of New York. Like the player pianos found at the New England Carousel Museum in Bristol, CT, the organ would play songs automatically at the push of a button. In the kitchen is a cast iron stove made by Cyrus Carpenter & Co. of Boston, similar to the stove found at Codman Estate in Lincoln, Massachusetts.
If you want to live like the Plants, feel free to visit Castle in the Clouds. Entrance to the Castle costs $20 per person, plus an additional $5 for the basement tour. NEMA members should note that Castle in the Clouds does not honor reciprocal membership, despite their organization being listed on the NEMA website. Tickets can only be purchased at a booth onsite starting at 10:00 a.m. on the day of the visit, not a second sooner.
While the view from the Castle was beautiful, and the building had several nice features, the experience itself was a disappointment due to poor communication and a lack of customer service. I do not recommend visiting the Castle unless the venue is on your bucket list.
Abby Epplett’s Rating System
Experience: 3/10
Accessibility: 5/10
In contrast, the free to the public Brook Walk is a great hike for waterfall lovers. Managed by Lakes Region Conservation Trust, the walk takes hikers past seven waterfalls of various sizes. The walk itself has historical significance as a vacation area for the Boston elite in the mid to late 19th century, with one waterfall named after abolitionist poet John Greenleaf Whittier.
Visiting the Castle in the Clouds area to take the Brook Walk was certainly worth the visit. As an added bonus, a free Solar Observing session with solar telescopes hosted by members of the New Hampshire Astronomical Society was set up not far from the trail on the day I visited.
The conservation area is open from dawn to dusk. Please do not allow yourself, your children, or your dog to swim in the water, as the currents are deceptively strong. While the hike is short, the trails are along a hillside with rough terrain and may prove difficult for some walkers.
Abby Epplett’s Rating System
Experience: 9/10
Accessibility: 6/10