Quick History Stops: New London, CT, Part 2

For the 250th anniversary of the United States, I took a three-day patriotic trip to the Thames River National Heritage Park in Groton and New London, CT. On Day 1, I spent the morning touring Fort Griswold Battlefield State Park, which included its monument, museum, and the interior of the fort, followed by an early afternoon boat tour, and a visit to Avery-Copp House (first part, second part). After making several quick history stops around Groton, I finished the day at UCONN Avery Point. The second day began Fort Trumbull where I learned architectural history, read informational signage, explored the exterior, and visited the museum. In the afternoon, I took a self-guided tour of Downtown New London Historic District, on the National Register of Historic Places since 1978 with an increase in 1988, which I have divided into three parts. In the first part, I visit a park, a statue, and a train station. In the second part, I saw public art, monuments, and a historic building.

A large bronze fountain depicting the tail of a whale with a three-story Richardson Romanesque red brick building in the background A large bronze sculpture of a whale tail and a tall pilar in the background A tall pillar with the statue of a Greco-Roman style lady at the top

Across from the train station is Parade Plaza, which includes the Whale Tail Fountain. The watery sculpture was created in 2010 using a design by sculptor Alan Cottrill and cast at Matthews Architectural Products, which was founded by English engraver John Dixon Matthews in Pittsburgh during 1850. Next to the fountain is the New London Soldiers & Sailors Monument. The plaza was once the site of a fort built in 1691 but destroyed in 1777, and the monument recognizes all people who have defended the United States. New London native Sebastian D. Lawrence erected the monument in memory of his father, Joseph Lawrence, who had immigrated from Italy. In the wall near the fountain and monument is a small stone inscription noting the original location of Saint James Parish, an Episcopalian church. The building was constructed either in 1732 according to the sign or in 1741 according to the church website. In any case, it was burned down by British troops on September 6, 1781 along with most of the town. A second church was built soon after, while the third and current church was built in 1850. I will have to return to see this church, as it has six Louis Comfort Tiffany stained glass windows.

A carved stone marker with information about the construction and burning of Saint James Parish A small red Georgian style building with a gambrel roof on the corner of a city block A tall sign with letters reading "New London" and a Whale tail between the words

Across the street from the plaza is Nathan Hale Schoolhouse of New London, formerly known as Union Grammar School, a separate entity from the Nathan Halle Schoolhouse in East Haddam, CT. Both properties are owned and operated by the Connecticut Society of the Sons of the American Revolution. Nathan Hale is the state hero of Connecticut. As a naive twenty-one year old, he volunteered to spy on British-held Long Island to gather intelligence for George Washington, only to be captured and hung on September 22, 1776. (I visited the Hale family homestead later in the museum season, so keep an eye out for that post!) The house is allegedly open on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., June 1 through September 29, but when I visited on Sunday, July 5, it was closed.

A pair of short bronze monuments about Native American and Maritime history in New London, CT A small bronze monument about naval history in New London with cutouts representing submarines A metal plaque embedded in the wall describing the music and history talents of Dwight “The Professor” Baldwin

Down the street were a series of bronze memorials to several events in New London history. The signage described how Mohegan and Pequot people on Long Island Sound would use the resources of the ocean and cited three local museums: Mashantucket Pequot Museum (which I visited about twenty years ago and must see again!), Mystic Seaport Museum (which I last visited in 2024), and Tantaquidgeon Museum operated by Mohegan Tribe (it is on my list!) The sign also references the Amistad Incident, citing the Custom House Maritime Museum, Shaw Mansion, and Hempstead Houses owned by Connecticut Landmarks. Other highlights on this plaque were transatlantic trade and the beginning of the U.S. Coast Guard, citing Fort Trumbull State Park and the upcoming U.S. Coast Guard Museum. Nearby, another monument was dedicated to the advancements of naval technology, from wind-powered ships to nuclear submarines. Lyman Allyn Art Museum and Submarine Force Museum received their own citations. The final plaque on this wall was dedicated to Dwight “The Professor” Baldwin as part of the Black Heritage Trail. Baldwin was a professional musician who taught drumming and African history to the community.

Large painting on a wall depicting a whale Large painting on a wall depicting many people playing musical instruments Large painting on a wall depicting scuba divers

I also took a quick stop at three murals on Wall to Wall, part of the largest mural walk in New England created by the art-focused nonprofit Hygienic. The three murals I saw were “Songs of Our City” designed by Qimin Liu and Mark Gerard McKee, “Hard Hat Painters” designed by Michael McNabney and Troy Zaushny, and “The Sperm Whale” designed by Wyland Foundation, Whaling City Restoration Committee, and Jamie XV. I will have to return to see more of these fun and colorful murals!

Location: New London, CT 06320, USA